CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL: AVANT-GARDE GARMENTS AND CRAFTSMANSHIP
Unique and unusual materials, innovative leather manufacture, with lines which are partly traditional and partly dark: welcome to Carol Christian Poell’s pioneering world. But if you take a closer look at his collections, you’ll find a boundless fascination for historic fashion design.
The astonishing anti-fashion of the creator Carol Christian Poell
Surrounded by clothes since he was a child, when he helped his stepfather in the family business, Carol Christian Poell trained as a creative between Austria and Italy. But ultimately decided to open his atelier in 1995 in Milan. Both countries clearly influence his clothing items: an absolutely original blend of tailoring details and textile engineering. At first glance their outline and cut do seem almost primitive. In order to understand their uniqueness, you need to go behind the scenes. Here you’ll see why:
- he loves unusual fabrics and leathers: kangaroo leather, human hair for his ties, titanium inserts, leather garments dyed with oxen blood and coats made of fiberglass are the proof that this designer’s trying to go beyond fashion and its rules. A sort of “anti-fashion” criticising, for example, the unfair use of animal skins: that’s why his atelier refuses to employ them unless they come from animals which are then eaten, or else completely put to good use;
- even when he opts for more conventional solutions, he prefers high-quality materials and textiles. An example is the virgin wool of the Carol Christian Poell Raglan coat, or the mix of wool and ramie of the Caban coat. The latter offers wonderful properties in return: when combined with wool or other fibres it doesn’t shrink, it’s resistant to high temperatures and extremely bright;
- he tries out uncommon manufacturing techniques: the most peculiar ones are garment dyeing and tanning. The latter consists in creating the whole garment before tanning it, as it is the case with the Carol Christian Poell Scarstitched leather jacket: producing this clothing item requires a long time -around 30 days – and a lot of effort. This jacket shows you the effects of garment dyeing, too: it was the whole jacket, once finished, which was immersed in the dye bath, not its leather. This kind of colouring adds a distressed touch to clothes, with an aged effect.
A dark and revolutionary look for men and women who like to impress
The aim of this designer is to surprise people. And he does it by choosing unexpected materials and craft techniques, even during his “presentation”, like the one organised in 2008 in the toilets of an abandoned industrial building. An even more amazing one took place in 2003: under a bridge on the Naviglio Grande, in Milan, he let his models float down the river, wearing his creations.
Quality, distinctive craft production and special materials: the ideal features for someone who looks for luxury clothing items with a slightly dark style and futuristic lines (like the ones of the zips, not straight but rather zigzag).
Discover our unique selection of Carol Christian Poell pieces, in our dedicated online store, only his best garments, both for men and for women.